What to eat in Mombasa, and where

Mombasa food is a conversation between the coast, the sea and the old trade routes. Start with breakfast and work forward.

Morning

Mahamri and mbaazi — sweet coconut doughnuts with pigeon peas in coconut milk. Every neighbourhood has a spot; ask for the one with the queue.

Midday

Biryani is a religion here, and opinions are strong. The best versions are sold by the plate from family kitchens rather than polished restaurants.

Evening

Mishkaki from the roadside grills, eaten standing, with chilli on the side.